Notes from the French Quarter (Issue #102)
A little birthday trip recap (feat. gators, ghosts, + gumbo)!
Hi friends!
Last week was my Golden Birthday (I turned 30 on April 30th, hehe), and in anticipation of the big day, my mom and I took a trip to New Orleans!! I’d only been once for a brief overnight stay in college, so I was excited to spend more time in a new-to-me city.
Luckily, New Orleans did NOT disappoint. The biggest standout throughout the trip was the food, a fact that will probably won’t come as a surprise to anyone familiar with the area. From casual cafés to fine dining, everything we ate was incredible. My mom and I spent most of our time in the French Quarter, and even in a tourist hotspot, the food delivered.
Beyond all that, though, I was blown away by just how distinct the culture in New Orleans felt. Obviously, it’s still part of the U.S., but its rich and layered history has shaped the city in truly unique ways.
A (very mini) history lesson
Louisiana was initially colonized by France, partially fell under Spanish rule for a few decades, was returned to France at the start of the 19th century, and then eventually joined the United States as part of the Louisiana Purchase. It’s this mixing of influences that gives New Orleans its distinct feel.
You can see the Spanish influence in the architecture, and feel the French influence in the culture. At the time of the Louisiana Purchase, the area was primarily occupied by Louisiana Creoles, a term used to describe those who were of French descent, but born in the colony; the majority of these folks practiced Roman Catholicism and spoke French. However, after the U.S. gained control of the area, Americans moved south to make New Orleans their new home. Eventually, plans were made to build a canal connecting the Mississippi River, Bayou St. John, and Lake Pontchartrain. The placement of this canal would have separated the Creole side of town from the American side, but the project was never finished. Instead, a street formed. Canal Street became a place of “neutral ground,” where the two cultures could mix in a thriving entertainment, residential, and commercial district.
However, New Orleans’ cultural roots stretch back even further, especially in places like Congo Square. Back in the 18th century, enslaved Africans in the region were governed by the “Code Noir,” a law that, among other horrors, forced conversion to Catholicism. As part of that, enslaved people were sometimes granted Sundays off. On those rare days, they gathered where they could. One of those places was “la place Congo,” now known as Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park. Soon, the area was filled with singing, dancing, music, and a thriving market— a vital space, not just for socializing or trading, but for preserving African culture in a place designed to erase it. From Congo Square emerged the tradition of voodoo, an ancient religion developed by enslaved West Africans in New Orleans. Voodoo has been routinely mischaracterized in popular culture, but it is a real religion that continues to be practiced to this day.
Because we currently live in such a globalized world, it’s easy to take this cultural development for granted. But when New Orleans was taking shape, the sheer number of cultures all coming together and shaping one another was extremely unique.
It was nice to not only experience New Orleans and its singular culture but also to learn the history of why the area has taken shape in this way. Obviously, books and documentaries are always a good way to go, but most of this information was gathered from tours my mom and I went on while in New Orleans. We had five days there and we really used them to their fullest!
My top New Orleans recommendations based on our trip
Oak Alley Plantation + Cajun Pride Swamp Tours
I booked these tours together through a Viator bundle! The plantation was both stunning and haunting. I thought they did a decent job of not shying away from the land’s dark history, and it was interesting to learn about what life looked like for those enslaved there. The swamp tour took a very different tone. It was a fun way to see alligators, raccoons, and lots of other wildlife in a natural ecosystem so different than anything we have in Minnesota.
This company offers a range of adult-only walking ghost tours, and my mom and I took the “Walking the Devil’s Empire” tour. Truthfully, it was more of a spooky history tour than a ghost tour, but it was a fun way to learn about the city from an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide.
Perfume Class at Tijon Parfumerie
Another activity booked through Viator, we took a perfume-making class, and got to leave with our very own custom perfume!
For a fancier meal, my mom and I tried Cochon and loved it! They specialize in Cajun cuisine, which was a unique treat compared to the food I can get back home. :)
My mom and I got tarot readings here, and my mom’s was SPOT ON! My reading was a lot less accurate, but you win some, you lose some, 😂.
We visited this cafe for breakfast three separate times; it was that good! They had a nice, casual atmosphere, live music, and delicious southern-style breakfasts!
Have you been to New Orleans? What are your top recommendations for the area? Reply to this email or leave a comment below, I wanna hear from you!!
A round-up of things to watch, read, and listen to as you head into the weekend.
I know how frustrating paywalls are! When possible, I’ll try to offer gift links through my subscriptions to support access to high-quality journalism.
Movie: Sinners
The hype on this one is absolutely justified. I won’t say more than that because I went in knowing very little about the movie, and I think that is ideal for your first viewing experience.
The Daily: Children’s Books Go Before the Supreme Court (gift link)
In June, the Supreme Court will be ruling on a case about whether schools should be mandated to inform parents about books that mention LGBTQ characters or themes. This episode was a great and absolutely infuriating summary of the case.
MinnPost: The secret sauce for the best streets in the Twin Cities is geography mixed with neglect over the years by Bill Lindeke
After compiling a list of his favorite streets for walking in Minneapolis and St. Paul, Bill Lindeke went on a journey to discover why these streets had become such dense, walkable destinations. I really liked the historical analysis, and it was a good reminder that a chain of small decisions over the years has a big impact on the formation (and ultimately the enjoyment) of major cities.
Action items to support and care for the world around us.
WeHelp NOLA provides free mental health care access to restaurant industry workers in New Orleans, many of whom would not otherwise have access to this care. They operate as a low-cost membership program for restaurants, which can then offer this programming to their workers. In response to the NYE terrorist attack on Bourbon St, WeHelp NOLA has shifted all of its donations to directly fund crisis counseling for those affected. You can learn more about their work and donate here.
Founded in 1998 by a coalition of music advocates, the New Orleans Musicians’ Clinic & Assistance Foundation boasts itself as “the first medical clinic for musicians, performing artists, and cultural workers in the United States.” Providing comprehensive medical care and social services, they serve anyone over 19 years old and their family, regardless of their insurance status or ability to pay. You can learn more about their work and donate here.
Created by formerly incarcerated women, Operation Restoration offers supportive programming for women and girls impacted by incarceration. Their services are really comprehensive, covering everything from social services and education support to arts programming and even a bail fund! You can read more about all of their services and donate to support their work here.
unCommon Construction is a really cool program for high school students in New Orleans, where participants build a house over a semester. Here’s how it’s described on their website: “With the revenue from each project, apprentices also earn a matching ‘Equity Award Scholarship’ for further education, industry certifications, or the tools needed for long-term employment.” You can learn more and donate to support their work here.
Things to try + share in the group chat.
Note: Links preceded by an asterisk (*) are affiliate links that allow me to collect a small commission when you purchase something I’ve recommended. That said, I can promise I’ll only ever share items I love. Buying through these links is one way to support me and my small biz. ❤️
Want some sunshine in a bottle? LaCroix’s got you.
This giant bag of Japanese Kit Kats has taken over my social feeds. Tempted is an understatement.
Umm, so we’re all trying to be like Rachel’s mom now, right?? ⬇️💕
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Last week, I wrote about my new favorite summer album — Catharsis by Anna Houston! Read all about it here:
Aaaand, with this past Monday being the first of the month, I shared the food, TV shows, products, and reels that got me through April in my monthly bonus issue!
Have a great weekend!
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Cafe Beignet is soooo good!